September 23, 2010

Local Currency

The American businessman and I went through immigration. Then we walked past a duty free area where, to my surprise, they sold not only the usual perfume, alcohol and food but also refrigerators and washing machines. He told me these were bought by Sri Lankans coming in from abroad and wheeled out on the baggage trolleys to happy friends and family members.
After collecting our luggage we said goodbye and I decided it was time to get some Sri Lankan money.I was soon in possession of my first Sri Lankan rupees – a number of 2000 LKR notes, a 1000 LKR note and two 500 LKR.









2000 LKR is worth about 13€ or $17 US. Of course, that doesn’t mean much until you know what it will buy. Over the next few days I learned that 2000 LKR would buy a hotel dinner with some change left over and that you could get a light lunch for 500 LKR unless you bought a drink. Admission to tourist sites is often more expensive than dinner – for foreigners. There are three clearly marked prices at all sites – adults, children and foreigners. Foreigners pay at least double what Sri Lankans are charged and sometimes a good deal more. I philosophically thought “Oh well, I’m supporting the local economy.”
I found out there was a need for smaller bills too – for tipping. You tip nearly everyone who does anything for you in Sri Lanka but it’s hard to learn the rules because questions are met with embarrassed politeness.
“Shall I give this man a tip?”
“If you’re happy, Mum.”
“How much shall I give?”
“Whatever you like, Mum.”
After several days of observation, I developed my own rules.
Leaving your shoes outside the temple = 50 LKR




(This one was easy because it is clearly posted at each temple.)

Other small services like carrying luggage to your hotel room = 100 LKR



More important services – like a heavenly massage = 500 LKR

By the end of my stay I had acquired the Sri Lankan tip giving manner.
1. Fold the note you are about to give and clutch it in your hand so it’s barely visible.
2. Hold out your hand, while staring just above the other person’s left shoulder with a pleasant expression on your face – but not quite a smile.
3. Walk away or get into your car immediately afterwards so the giving and leaving gestures all seem part of the same movement.

I eventually saw even smaller notes -- useless for buying anything except when you had several.






Though I saw coins left as offerings in temples, I never held one in my hand. If a bill came to 832 LKR, they just charged me 830 LKR

But all of this was in my future. In the present, I just needed to find the travel agency representative and my guide. And, to my relief, they were there! The travel agency rep put a sweetly perfumed frangipani lei around my neck and introduced me to my guide. My guide smiled and pushed my luggage trolley to his waiting car.

Oh they drive on the left here like in England.
May I sit in the front seat, please?

I settled myself and we were off. I found my guide very cheerful and chatty considering the sun had only just risen.
I heard “Portuguese, Dutch, English”
I heard “Buddhist, Hindu, Moslem, Christian”
I heard “Wet zone, intermediate zone, dry zone”
I heard “coconut”
Then …… I heard ……. nothing more.

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