Strolling Through History

When I first came to Paris. I saw it as part historical theme park and part museum. I was disappointed not to be able to see all the famous buildings I’d learned about. As years passed, I began to appreciate themany layers of history that coexist in this city that has been evolving for over 2000 years. Old buildings, often put to new uses, stand proudly next to more modern structures constructed on the site of their long-destroyed predecessors. Wherever you go, if you are observant, you will see plaques and statues put up by associations or the city commemorating those who lived and worked where you are walking. Since 1992, there are also 767 panels designed by Philip Starck installed throughout Paris reminding passers-by of old scandals, battles or celebrations that took place on the spot where they areThe city government pays the company that installed these panels 1.2 million euros per year to maintain them. Paris loves its history.

   

Let’s explore one fairly young street so you can see what I mean. A stone’s throw from the Louvre, next to the Comédie Française, you will find the unpretentious-looking rue de Richelieu.



Knowledgeable people will tell you that this street was named for the Cardinal de Richelieu, Prime Minister of Louis XIII. Even more knowledgeable people will tell you that the Cardinal had the street built in 1633 when he extended his Palace. He called it rue Royale but it soon became known as rue de Richelieu. In 1793 the Revolutionary government re-baptized it rue de la Loi (Law Street). Napoleon I restored it to its (almost) original name in 1806. For the first century or two of its existence the rue de Richelieu was the address of many mansions as well as theaters, the original stock exchange and the original national library. It was also shorter since Paris was still a  much smallerwalled city.
Now,shops, hotels, bars, restaurants office buildings and apartment buildings line both sides of the street. People stride along the sidewalks;cars speed along the street – all on their way somewhere. But we are strolling so we have time to see things.

One of rue de Richelieu’s most famous residents was Jean Baptiste Poquelin, better known as Molière. Towards the end of his life, he lived at Number 40 a short way from the Comédie Française. On February 17th 1673 after he collapsed at the end of a performance of le Malade Imaginaire.(the Imaginary Invalid) he was carried back here where he died. Even if you had never heard of him, you’d know he was famous.

There is not only a plaque on the wall of the building.

  

There is also one of Philip Starck’s panels telling the story of his death.

 

Across the street, at the juncture of rue de Richelieu and a street named after Molière there is also a large fountain built in 1844 to replace an earlier one that had been destroyed because it blocked traffic.

The facade of the building where the great man lived, its roof and the principal staircase have been classified as “Historic Monuments” but since time marches on, the rest of it has undergone extensive renovation and is now a chic events center with a restaurant scheduled to open in the basement later this year. 

Another famous Frenchman died in a building next door to the Molière Fountain but forty years before it was built. Denis Diderot, philosopher and writer has only a modest plaque.

No chic events center for him – just a casual take-away restaurant.

(though the cakes looked delicious )

Diderot just missed meeting a famous American who would no doubt have been delighted to talk with him. When he arrived in Paris as Minister Plenipotentiary to the court of Louis XVI, ThomasJefferson lived for a few days very near the philosopher’s home in a mansion long since torn down and replaced by a Tunisian restaurant. Unfortunately, Diderot died a week before Jefferson arrived. Some people are just unlucky

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My favorite piece of layered history on this street is more complex than where famous men lived and died. See this peaceful small park.

At first it was the site of the home of the Marquis de Louvois,Minister of war for Louis XIII as his son was for Louis XIV. After the French Revolution, in 1793, the tempestuous Mlle  Montansier operated a theater here.

Two years later, the State acquired it and it became the Paris Opera until 1820 when the Duc de Berry was assassinated by an anti-Royalist as he was coming to attend a performance.

After this, the Opéra was moved to another location and this theater was demolished. It was announced that it was to be made into a public square. Several changes of government and aborted plans later, it finally was. No doubt those who come to enjoy a little fresh air and sunshine are undisturbed by the ghosts of the Square’s animated history.

This is only a taste of what the rue de Richelieu has to tell us. And there are over 6000 more streets to explore. But now it’s time for a coffee and a pain au chocolat.