City Chic

Soon after we turned back onto the main Galle-Columbo road, the traffic became heavier and more frantic and the buildings taller and more numerous. We were in Colombo and heading for my sixth and last Sri Lankan Hotel.
The Galle Face Hotel was founded by British entrepreneurs in 1864 -- building on to a Dutch villa called Galle Face House. The house and, later, the hotel took their name from the large field laid out as a promenade, race track and golf course by the British governor of Ceylon in 1859. It was bigger then but still covers 5 hectares (over 12 acres) between Galle Road and the Indian Ocean.

No longer used for horse races or golf, it is still a favorite spot for local families who come here to stroll, picnic, fly kites or swim.



The hotel has undergone many renovations over the years but is still one of Colombo’s most popular places. It’s even listed in the book “1000 Places to See Before You Die.” And now I have.
I had hoped to be staying in the Classic Wing (the old part of the hotel)



but it was not to be. Lankesh swung around to the imposing entrance to the Regency Wing, the four year old extension to the Victorian hotel



where a distinguished doorman in livery opened the car door with a flourish. I mounted the steps to the vast lobby,feeling a little daunted and hopiing I’d be found worthy.
I was shown to my room which did have an ocean view --nearly --



and a somewhat intimidating control panel on the bedside table.



Though most of the buttons did as they were supposed to, try as I might, I couldn’t get the bathroom light to turn off. I saw the word “Bath’” on the lower left hand side. But no matter how hard I pressed, nothing happened. I gave up and called reception. Within minutes there was a knock at my door. A pleasant attendant asked how he could help. I explained my plight and he reached up --- and flicked the light switch next to the bathroom door. I could see that, after two weeks in the country, re-entry into urban life was going to take some time.
As I wandered through the hotel to get my bearings – oh look, the car the 19 year old midshipman who is now Prince Philip bought when he was stationed in Ceylon during World War II – the prized (and much photographed) possession of the owner of the Hotel. --



I learned that about half the guests here were western businessmen. The others were tourists like myself, either at the beginning or at the end of their visit, and Sri Lankans staying here for weddings – remember the weddings? –



or guests at banquets held in one of the 9 restaurants.
By this time, I was at that familiarly uncomfortable part of a trip abroad where your itinerary says you still have several days before the flight home but your mind and body say “I’ve seen what I came to see and I’m not sure I can absorb any more.” I was glad to have the time to sit by the salt water pool,



look out on the Indian Ocean



and muse.