A Paris Secret

Many of my North American friends confidently say to me each summer « Of course, you’re here because in Paris everything shuts down in August. » I smile. “Shall I tell them or not?” I wonder. August is Paris’ best kept secret – an oasis of calm that we don’t want too many people to find out about.
Of course, all the major hotels, restaurants, stores and tourist attractions are open and busy. But life changes for those of us who live here.
Many families with school-aged children are away in August, of course. This means less traffic on the roads and more places to sit in the metro. It means shorter lines in the grocery stores and more seats on café terraces and in the cinemas.
Those who work for some or all of August do so in a less stressful environment. The phones ring less often and you can get on with your work and, if you’re lucky, get caught up on all the things it’s hard to fit in during the rest of the year.
People move at a slower pace in August. Evenings are still long and the weather is often still good. Less stress at work and less commuters’ fatigue mean that people can get together a bit earlier or stay out a bit later with friends who are still in town or have returned, tanned and healthy. Exchanging stories about your vacation -- just past or still to come -- keeps the feeling alive.



For the last 8 years, the Mayor has helped Parisians enjoy their summer by closing off a portion of the express traffic lane along one side of the Seine to create a beach complete with sand, grass, palm trees, chaises longues, parasols and cafés.


You can start your day with an hour of water aerobics in the swimming pool brought in each year for the month or relax with tai chi or a free massage. Children, tired of digging in the sand, can play in the adventure playground or learn to draw or make smoothies or do scientific experiments. Adults gather after work to share a drink or a picnic with friends and perhaps attend a concert under the stars.
It’s true that many of the small shops and neighborhood restaurants are closed for two to four weeks in August as a host of little signs on shop fronts attest. Everybody needs a vacation



August can be a good time to renovate the store.




Some stores just close an extra day a week.




Or just open in the evening except on Saturday.



But all this adds to the adventure of August. You might discover a great new bakery or restaurant if your favorite one is closed.




Or notice an interesting book shop as you walk down a street you don’t usually take to get to a dry cleaner’s you don’t normally go to.
“Choisir c’est renoncer” (to choose is to give something up) said André Gide and for years I’ve almost always chosen to spend all of August in Charlottesville. But this year I didn’t. And I was able to enjoy Paris’s secret time once more, when you can sip lemonade in a place usually buzzing with traffic and watch the world go by.