Bread and Circuses

One of the fun things about living in France is the number of free events, large and small, politicians have scattered throughout the calendar for our enjoyment. It seems they retained the idea of “bread and circuses” from their classical education, without remembering that Juvenal meant it as a criticism. Or perhaps they simply feel that if it worked for the ancient Roman government, it could work for the modern French one.
May’s festival, for the last 16 years, has been the Fête du Pain (Bread Festival). It was established by Jean-Pierre Raffarin, then Minister of Small Business and Commerce, to honor bakers and bread as well as to teach French children a tradition that supermarkets and diet books were altering. The French eat 5 times less bread today than 100 years ago and, though the neighborhood baker still exists, more of what they do eat is bought in supermarkets or baked in factories and delivered to local bakeries. Young people looking for jobs often don't consider one which requires such long (and early) hours.
For all these good reasons,since 1996, bread and bakers are fêted all over France for a week in May. Why May? May 16th is St Honoré Day – feast day of the patron saint of bakers.

The Paris version of the Festival changes venues every year. This year it was held in the square in front of Notre Dame



to the bemusement of foreign tourists who had no idea what was happening and had just come to see the Cathedral.
This year, for some unexplained reason, Normandy was being honored. There were Norman musicians and ladies in traditional costumes



and people happily honored Normandy as directed.





Schoolchildren, dressed as bakers



learned how bread was made. Grownups didn't get special hats or have guided tours -- but we were allowed to watch the film.



Throughout the week, bakers participated in contests and were honored with prizes and diplomas. Here are the winners of the bread sculpture contest.







There was even a display of breads from around the world.



The English were represented by a display of hot cross buns and bagels.



Bagels? Don’t tell any New Yorkers you know!
The Americans were represented, too.



Ah well. To each country its own pièce de résistance.
French specialties were to be found between the cinema tent and the tent for tourist attractions in Normandy.



Freshly baked bread is wonderful and well worth a Festival. Merci, M Raffarin et bon appétit to all!