After breakfast I went to meet Lankesh. He was cheerful, as always, and ready to take me to visit the town. But I had seen nothing yesterday that I wanted to explore in the drizzle.
I thought another massage sounded like a much better morning activity. Perhaps, the weather would be nicer in the afternoon.
He knew of a massage center and took me there with an indulgent smile.
This place was more for locals than tourists. But they spoke a little English and were happy to see me.
The masseuse asked me if I wanted “hard or soft massage”.”Medium” I replied. Soon, I was very glad I had not said “hard”! Afterwards, I went into the steam bath box and someone gave me a facial. I felt wonderful as I sipped my tea in the lounge before getting dressed.
But it was still raining.
The weather did not clear after lunch but I was out of excuses. So off we went to explore Little England.
Nuwara Eliya was founded in 1846 by Sir Samuel Baker -- British explorer, army officer, naturalist and big game hunter. The British planters and civil servants who lived here or came for the season named it Little England. They built houses “just like home” and the moderate climate allowed them to grow the same flowers, fruits and vegetables they were used to. These houses and gardens are still doing well. “English Country Garden, Mum” Lankesh exclaimed enthusiastically, not once but several times.
We got out to walk through the graveyard of the Old Trinity Church, built at the town’s founding and still in use today.
Almost all of the gravestones are inscribed with British names, most from the 19th century but some much more recent.
Next stop was the racetrack. They were getting ready for some event and a few hardy local people were having rides on horses.
A few minutes later, when I saw Victoria Park, I wanted to go in.
Lankesh parked near the place where the tuk tuk drivers were waiting patiently for passengers, having draped their open taxis with “raincoats”.
I was surprised to see that that there were, in fact, quite a few family groups in the park.
Many had picnics they were trying to enjoy.
Wasn't there a more pleasant occupation for a drizzly Friday afternoon? Suddenly, it struck me. Today was Eid, the end of Ramadan. (It was a call to prayer I had heard that morning). The people in the park were Muslims – another minority ethnic group who work on the tea plantations. They had planned to picnic in the park and they were going to picnic in the park – despite the weather. Just like in England.
Soon, I had finished my stroll. As the only westerner in the Park at the time, I’d replied to many friendly greetings and been giggled at by dozens of small children. Now, I thought, it was time to to go back to the hotel and participate in another popular English custom – having a drink by the fire.
Tomorrow would be another day. If I was good, maybe I’d be back in Sri Lanka.
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